Why Coat Type Matters
Your dog's coat type determines nearly everything about their grooming needs: how often to brush, which tools to use, how frequently to schedule professional grooming, and whether certain haircuts are even possible. Most grooming frustrations — matting, overheating worries, excess shedding on the couch — come from treating every coat like it's the same. It isn't. Below is the full picture: the main coat categories, how to identify a mixed-breed or rescue dog's coat, the truth about double coats, and the shave-or-don't-shave question that comes up every Arizona summer.
The Main Coat Categories
Smooth/Short Coat
Examples: Boxers, Beagles, Dachshunds (smooth), Pit Bulls, French Bulldogs, Chihuahuas- Short hair that lies flat and close against the body
- Sheds moderately to heavily year-round, despite looking "low maintenance"
- Shows skin easily, so scrapes and irritation are easy to spot
Double Coat
Examples: Golden Retrievers, Labradors, Huskies and Malamutes, German Shepherds, Corgis, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, Pomeranians, Great Pyrenees, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Samoyeds, Akitas, Chow Chows, Shelties, and Australian Cattle Dogs (Blue/Red Heelers)- Two distinct layers: a dense, soft undercoat and a coarser, longer guard coat (topcoat)
- Heavy seasonal shedding ("blowing coat") in spring and fall, though in Arizona's climate it can feel more constant year-round
- Provides insulation against both heat and cold — more on this below
Curly/Wavy Coat
Examples: Poodles, Bichon Frises, Portuguese Water Dogs, Lagotto Romagnolos, many Doodle mixes- Hair grows continuously, much like human hair, rather than cycling and shedding out
- Minimal visible shedding because loose hair gets trapped in the curls instead of falling out — which is exactly why mats form so easily
- The highest-maintenance coat type overall
Wire/Rough Coat
Examples: Schnauzers, Wire Fox Terriers, Brussels Griffons, Scottish Terriers, Wirehaired Dachshunds, Border Terriers- Coarse, bristly texture
- Doesn't shed heavily, but grows in a specific pattern that gives these breeds their signature look
Long/Silky Coat
Examples: Shih Tzus, Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Havanese, Afghan Hounds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels- Long, flowing hair that can be silky or cottony
- Tangles and mats easily, especially around the collar, armpits, and ears
- Often grows over the eyes and needs regular face trims
Hairless
Examples: Chinese Crested (hairless variety), Xoloitzcuintli, American Hairless Terrier- Little to no hair, with exposed skin that needs real care
- Prone to sunburn, acne, and dryness — especially under the Arizona sun
Decoding a Mixed-Breed or Rescue Dog's Coat
Mixed-breed dogs make up the majority of pets in the U.S., and their coats can be wonderfully unpredictable. You adopt a dog labeled a "Lab mix," and the coat turns out curly in some spots, wiry in others, and shedding like a Husky. Understanding what you're actually working with is the first step to keeping your dog comfortable.
The Touch Test
Run your fingers through your dog's fur in a few different areas of the body:
- Soft and fluffy underneath with coarser hair on top? → Double coat
- Springy curls that bounce back? → Curly coat
- Rough and bristly like a doormat? → Wire coat
- Silky and slippery? → Long/silky coat
- Short and smooth against the body? → Smooth coat
Check Multiple Zones
Mixed breeds often have different textures in different areas of the same dog. You might find curly ears but a smooth body (Poodle × Lab mix), a wiry face with a soft, fluffy body (Terrier × Shepherd mix), or long feathering on the legs with a short torso coat. The area that needs the most maintenance determines your grooming schedule — not the average of the whole dog.
The Shedding Clue
- Heavy shedding usually means double-coated genetics are present
- Minimal shedding with fast, continuous growth points to curly or wavy coat genetics
- Moderate, consistent shedding suggests smooth or wire coat influence
Practical Tips for Mixed Coats
You may need multiple brush types for one dog: a slicker brush for most areas and tangles, an undercoat rake if there's any double-coat trait, a steel comb for finishing and checking hidden mats, and a rubber curry brush for smooth-coated zones. Base your brushing frequency on the highest-maintenance coat type present — any curly or wavy areas mean brushing every 1–2 days, a double-coat blend means 2–3 times weekly, and a mostly smooth coat only needs weekly brushing.
For professional grooming scheduling: curly/wavy mixes every 4–6 weeks, double-coat mixes every 6–8 weeks (with deshedding), wire-coat mixes every 6–8 weeks, and smooth-coat mixes every 8–12 weeks for bathing and nails.
Watch out for the "Doodle surprise" — many Doodle mixes are marketed as non-shedding, but genetics are unpredictable, and some inherit a coat that both sheds and mats, the most high-maintenance combination possible. Shelter dogs also sometimes arrive with coats in poor condition; a professional grooming session after adoption can reveal the true coat type underneath and set you up with the right home routine. Communicate with your groomer about how often you brush, where mats tend to form, and how much shedding you're seeing — they can recommend the right haircut length and products for your specific blend.
What Is a Double Coat, Really?
Because double coats are the most misunderstood category — and the one most likely to get shaved by mistake in Arizona heat — they deserve a closer look.
A double coat is exactly what it sounds like: two layers of fur working together to protect your dog from the elements.
The Undercoat
Soft, dense, and fluffy — almost like down insulation. Its job is temperature regulation: it traps cool air near the skin in summer and warm air in winter. It sheds seasonally in the famous "blowing coat" event, releasing large amounts of fur over several weeks.
The Guard Coat (Topcoat)
Longer, coarser, and more weather-resistant. It repels water and dirt, blocks UV rays like a built-in sunscreen, and shields the skin from brush, insects, and debris. It sheds less dramatically than the undercoat but still cycles through growth phases.
Together, these layers create a natural temperature regulation system that works like the insulation in a house — keeping heat out in summer and warmth in during winter.
Common Double-Coated Breeds
Large breeds: Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, German Shepherd, Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Great Pyrenees, Bernese Mountain Dog, Akita, Samoyed, Newfoundland, Saint Bernard.
Medium breeds: Australian Shepherd, Australian Cattle Dog (Blue/Red Heeler), Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog (Sheltie), Chow Chow, American Eskimo Dog, Keeshond.
Small breeds: Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgis, Pomeranian, Shiba Inu, Finnish Spitz, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
Caring for a Double Coat
Brush 2–3 times per week minimum, daily during shedding season, using an undercoat rake, slicker brush, and a steel comb for finishing. Work in sections from the skin outward to pull loose undercoat free. Bathe every 6–8 weeks with a deshedding or moisturizing shampoo, and always blow dry thoroughly — a dense undercoat left damp leads to hot spots and skin issues. Schedule professional deshedding treatments every 6–8 weeks during heavy shedding periods, along with regular trims of paw pads, sanitary areas, and feathering. Never use human shampoo; the pH is wrong for dog skin and can damage the coat.
Double Coats in Arizona
Living with a double-coated breed in Arizona takes a bit of extra attention. The undercoat works year-round, insulating against heat just as much as cold, so don't assume your dog is "done shedding" once summer hits. Air conditioning and artificial lighting can actually disrupt natural shed cycles, making some dogs shed more constantly instead of in two clean seasonal blowouts. Hydration matters for coat health, and regular professional deshedding is one of the most useful things you can do for a double-coated dog here.
Signs of an Unhealthy Double Coat
Watch for excessive shedding beyond normal seasonal blowing, bald patches or thin areas, dry or flaky skin underneath, matting close to the skin, dull or brittle guard hairs, and persistent itching or scratching. If you notice any of these, check in with your vet to rule out allergies, thyroid issues, or nutritional deficiencies — a groomer can spot coat symptoms, but only a vet can diagnose the underlying cause.
Should You Shave a Double-Coated Dog?
When it's 115°F in Gilbert and your Husky, German Shepherd, or Golden Retriever is panting hard, the instinct to grab the clippers is strong. "They'd be so much cooler without all that fur," you think. But the science says the opposite: shaving a double-coated dog can actually make them hotter and put them at risk for sunburn and long-term coat damage.
Why Shaving Doesn't Help
It removes the insulation. Without the undercoat, a dog loses their ability to regulate body temperature, and the sun hits bare skin directly — the exact opposite of the intended effect. Sunburn risk goes up. Dogs can get sunburned, and shaved dogs — especially those with pink skin — are at high risk. Sunburn can lead to pain, peeling, and in serious cases skin cancer; a vet should be consulted for any suspicious skin changes. The coat may never grow back right. Shaving a double coat can cause patchy regrowth (the undercoat and guard coat grow at different rates), texture changes (coming back coarse, dull, or woolly), and in some cases permanent damage where the guard coat never fully returns. It doesn't reduce shedding. The undercoat will still shed — you'll just have shorter fur everywhere instead of longer fur in the bag of the vacuum.What to Do Instead
Professional deshedding is the gold standard. A thorough deshedding treatment removes loose undercoat without damaging the guard coat, typically combining a specialized deshedding shampoo, a high-velocity blow dry to blast out loose fur, professional deshedding tools, and a thorough brushout. Pair that with regular at-home brushing — 2–3 times per week, daily during shedding season — using an undercoat rake and slicker brush.
Keep dogs cool the right way instead: fresh water at all times, cooling mats and vests, walks during the coolest hours only, shade and air conditioning, and never leaving a dog in a parked car. It's also perfectly fine to tidy up a double coat without shaving it to the skin — trimming paw pads, neatening the feathering on legs and belly, trimming sanitary areas, and cleaning up around the ears are all safe.
When Shaving IS Necessary
In rare cases, shaving is genuinely required: severe matting that can't be brushed out, medical procedures requiring skin access, or skin conditions that need topical treatment. These are exceptions, not the rule, and your groomer or vet will tell you when one applies — it should never be the default solution to summer heat.
Not Sure What Coat Type You Have?
If you have a mixed breed or rescue and aren't sure what you're dealing with, a groomer can identify it in minutes and recommend a maintenance plan tailored to your dog's specific coat. Bring up your brushing routine, where mats tend to form, and any skin issues so the plan actually fits your dog rather than a generic breed standard.
How Gordie's Can Help
Whatever coat type — or coat combination — your dog has, the team at Gordie's Grooming in downtown Gilbert (335 N Gilbert Rd Suite 106, next to OHSO Brewery) can identify it and build the right routine around it. We offer professional deshedding treatments for double-coated breeds like Huskies, Shepherds, Goldens, and Cattle Dogs starting from a $15 add-on to any groom or bath, with a specialized shampoo, high-velocity drying, and a full brushout — no shaving required. First time with us? Use code NEW15 for 15% off your first groom, and ask about our 5-pack (save 10%, never expires) if you're ready to put a regular deshedding schedule on the calendar. We're open Monday–Saturday, 8–5, and serve Gilbert, Mesa, Chandler, Queen Creek, and San Tan Valley. Call 480-471-8884, text 334-518-4822, or book online with Gordie's anytime.